Chanderi is the textile that has stolen millions of hearts around the world and especially in India. Traditional Chanderi silk saree never loses its charm and beauty. We have all been awed by the beautiful Chanderi fabric, and yet we know so little about it.
ORIGIN
ABOUT THE FABRIC
WEAVING PROCESS
The craft of weaving Chanderi has been practiced in families for generations. This has created a long lineage of skilled and experienced weavers whose craft cannot be replaced by power loom versions, and hence needs to be revered for its sheer brilliance. Chanderi is one of the shining jewels of India’s textile industry and it isn’t a wonder that it holds a special place in our hearts like no other.
Originally, Chanderi fabric was woven with handspun cotton yarn which was as fine as 300 counts, making the fabric as famous as the Muslins of Dhaka. The fine count cotton for Chanderi was extracted from a special root called the Kolikanda. Light yet strong, it gave the fabric a glossy finish. The fabric is woven with warp (tana), stretched out set of threads, through which the weft (bana) is passed through in regular motion. Since the inception, till about 1920s, only white and off-white cloth was woven with its ends embellished with zari and golden thread. Only hand-spun cotton thread was used even in the warp though it was not strong enough to be held under tension. The thread count in the warp can vary from 4,000 to 17000, depending upon the quality required. In the west, cotton, mercerized cotton, raw silk or kataan is used. In the borders and butis, mercerized cotton, silk and zari threads are used. The butis on Chanderi fabric were woven on the handloom with the use of needles. Separate needles were used to create different motifs. Weavers then coated these motifs with gold, silver or copper dust.
CHANDERI AS A FABRIC FOR GARMENTS
Chanderi silk sarees have always been popular for their light pastel hues. But modern times have called for brighter combinations of turquoise, fuchsia, navy blue, white, red and black. The popular borders on Chanderi garments include the nakshi and adda border. These have very intricate designs. You can also find the simple zari patela and piping borders. In the piping border, a single colour is alternated with fine strips of a different colour. Today, both the older and younger generation are seen adorning their beautiful heritage and not just as saree drapes, but also as tunics, kurtas, scarves and bottom-wear. Chanderi silk is a highly versatile fabric and can be easily adapted to create new and trendy styles for fashion enthusiasts across the globe. You may get an original Chanderi handspun saree for approximately 5000 INR (starting price). Chanderi kurtas, suits and dupattas are also gaining immense popularity among modern fashionistas and their pricing typically starts from somewhere around 1500 INR.
HANDPAINT ON CHANDERI
We at Firosha have closely worked with Chanderi weavers to design fashionable closet essentials and promote the weavers. we have designed our unique and exclusive collection of hand paints on Handloom Chanderi Silk and Chanderi Cotton. Your wardrobe is incomplete without a classy Chanderi silk garment. If you’re looking to embrace ethnic vintage fashion, get your hands on a beautiful handspun Chanderi now!
